The Ego, the Fighter, and the Dancer

The Fighter relies heavily on intuition and can easily access near-maximal try-hard each session. But, the fighter avoids learning opportunities on ego-grades and loses the chance to refine their movement skills. They skip anti-style routes because their ego can’t handle projecting a lower grade they “should” flash.

The Dancer avoids discomfort and only sends when everything feels just right. This approach often leads to more refined ascents, resulting in a deep understanding of projecting tactics and skills. However, it often means slower progress and longer redpoint timelines. The Dancer may struggle to give max-effort when a performance has not been perfected.

As with most things, the ideal lies in between. Coach Casey gives you specific ways to develop a balance in your climbing.