The Ego, the Fighter, and the Dancer
The Fighter relies heavily on intuition and can easily access near-maximal try-hard each session. But, the fighter avoids learning opportunities on ego-grades and loses the chance to refine their movement skills. They skip anti-style routes because their ego can’t handle projecting a lower grade they “should” flash.
The Dancer avoids discomfort and only sends when everything feels just right. This approach often leads to more refined ascents, resulting in a deep understanding of projecting tactics and skills. However, it often means slower progress and longer redpoint timelines. The Dancer may struggle to give max-effort when a performance has not been perfected.
As with most things, the ideal lies in between. Coach Casey gives you specific ways to develop a balance in your climbing.
the longer road will take you further
You will send harder routes and walk further down the path of climbing progression if you don’t always try to shorten your path.
A shorter path is… well, shorter. But allow me to subvert this idea with a question:
Isn’t your goal to go further?